Sikali Jatra: The Divine Spectacle Where Deities 'Take Flight' in Nepal
Explore the vibrant Sikali Jatra in Khokana, Nepal, where masked deities dance and Tantric rituals celebrate the Mother Goddess.
In the heart of the Southern Kathmandu Valley lies Khokana, a medieval Newa heritage village renowned for its mustard oil and deep-rooted cultural identity. While much of Nepal celebrates the fortnightly festival of Dashain, the residents of Khokana observe a different, mesmerizing tradition: the Sikali Jatra. This five-day religious fair is a vibrant explosion of color, faith, and ancient mysticism, dedicated to the Mother Goddess, known as "Shikali" or "Ajima."
A Divine Procession Like No Other
The festival is characterized by the appearance of "Devgans" (Divine hosts)—individuals clad in traditional attire and intricate masks who represent 14 gods and goddesses of the Hindu Pantheon. In a breathtaking display of faith and performance, these human embodiments of deities are seen "taking flight" as they tour the temple of Shikali, which is perched atop a grassy hill just outside the village.
The atmosphere is charged with spiritual energy, featuring priests in white robes and dancers in vivid costumes. The celebrations are not merely festive but are steeped in Tantric rituals and masked dances that reflect deep-seated religious perceptions.
The Legends Behind the Dance
The choreography of the Sikali Jatra is not random; it tells stories of cosmic struggle and divine wisdom. There are two primary dance narratives performed during the event:
- The Hunt for the Monster: A dramatic depiction of the search for and the eventual destruction of a monster.
- The Swosthani Narrative: A detailed showcase featuring Mahadev, Parbati, Kumar, and Ganesh.
The Swosthani dance recounts a legendary competition between brothers Kumar and Ganesh, set by their parents, Mahadev and Parbati. The challenge was to reach Sumeru Parbat to win a special incentive. While Kumar set off confidently with his peacock and wings, he faced hardships in the jungle, leading to a clash with a Lakhe and a subsequent fight with Hanuman. The story culminates with Ganesh searching for his brother, eventually leading the Lakhe to realize they were gods, causing the creature to flee in awe.
Faith, Ancestors, and the Afterlife
For the people of Khokana, the Sikali Jatra is more than a public spectacle; it is a personal spiritual necessity. Sanchuri Bajracharya, a local resident, explains that the festival is a time to pay homage to departed family members and pray for their peace.
There is also a fascinating belief regarding the afterlife associated with these festivals. According to local tradition, when a person meets Yamraj (the God of Death), they are asked for a list of the Jatras they attended during their lifetime. Attending the Sikali Jatra, along with those in Bungmati and Pharping, is considered essential for this divine accounting.
The Grand Finale and Historical Roots
The five-day celebration reaches its peak on the day of Fulpati. The focus shifts to the patron deity of Khokana, Goddess Rudrayani (also known as Maheshvari or Sikali). She is revered as the Shakti of Lord Mahesh (Shiva) and a manifestation of Goddess Parvati.
On the final day, Goddess Rudrayani is carried through the village in a magnificent wooden chariot, accompanied by various religious copper vessels, before resting in front of the temple. This concluding dance is believed to be intrinsically linked to the origin of Khokana itself, a city founded in the 15th century during the Medieval Malla Era by King Amar Malla, who migrated the Maharjan and Dangol families to the region.
Beyond the rituals, the Jatra serves as a joyful occasion for farmers to celebrate the post-harvest season, believing that the goddess protects their town from calamities and misfortunes.