Temples Fell, Faith Did Not: Devotees Use ‘Shila’ to Mark Lost Shrines in Devighat
After devastating floods erased temples in Devighat, Nepal, devotees use holy 'Shila' stones to mark sacred sites and continue their worship.
At the confluence of the Trishuli and Tadi rivers in Nepal's Nuwakot district, the town of Devighat was once a bustling hub of pilgrimage and spirituality. Today, that landscape has been replaced by a desolate expanse of sand and silt, the aftermath of a catastrophic flood on August 26. However, while the physical structures of worship have vanished, the spirit of devotion remains unshaken. Devotees are returning to the ruins, using holy stones known as “Shila” to mark the exact spots where their temples once stood.
A Landscape Transformed by Nature's Fury
The destruction of Devighat was not a gradual process but a sudden, violent event. A massive collapse of ice and rock high in the Himalayas, near the border of Nepal and China, triggered a devastating flash flood. This surge of ice, water, and debris tore through the Bhotekoshi and Trishuli river systems, leaving a trail of ruin in its wake.
In Devighat, the gushing waters did not spare anything. Homes, shops, bridges, and sacred shrines were either buried under layers of sediment or swept away entirely. Eight weeks later, the town remains a wasteland of scattered stones and silt, a stark contrast to the thriving market town it once was.
Faith Carved in Stone
Despite the loss of their physical sanctuaries, the people of Devighat refuse to let their traditions die. As the nationwide celebrations of the fortnight-long Dashain festival began, crowds of devotees thronged the riverbed. Unable to find the remains of their temples, they have installed "Shila" stones at the original locations of the shrines.
These stones now serve as the focal point for offerings of flowers, incense, and prayers. For the worshippers, the absence of a roof and walls does not diminish the sanctity of the site.
“The Jalapa Devi Temple used to be our centre of faith and worship. The flood has now swept away the physical structure of the temple. It has been our tradition to come here and worship, and we are continuing it with the same faith and devotion,” shared Gita Neupane, a devotee performing rituals on the riverbank.
The Enduring Significance of Devighat
The town's name, "Devi-Ghat," is deeply rooted in religious significance, named after the goddess herself. Beyond its spiritual importance, the area holds a pivotal place in Nepal's history. It is tied to the final days of King Prithvi Narayan Shah, the founder of modern Nepal, who passed away and was cremated in the vicinity.
For those visiting the ruins, the emotional experience of worship remains unchanged despite the surrounding devastation. Shanti Pandey, another devotee, noted that the feeling of fulfillment after performing rituals is exactly the same as it was before the flood.
While the river brought sudden destruction to the livelihoods and architecture of the town, the installation of the Shila stones serves as a powerful declaration: the goddess has not left Devighat, even if her temple has.